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Zusammenfassung von In Defense of Food

Name: In Defense of Food
Rating: 4.6 (85 reviews)
Author: Michael Pollan

Michael Pollan

An Eater’s Manifesto

4.6 (85 Bewertungen)

25 Min.

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In Defense of Food
in 11 Kernaussagen verstehen

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Kernaussage 1 von 11

What’s in it for me? Find out why focusing on nutrition rather than food leads to generally poorer health.

Why would we need any help in choosing which food to put into our bodies? We all recognize food when we see it.

Or do we?

In the past 50 years or so, a whole industry has developed around the idea of nutritionism – an approach to eating based not on food, but on nutrients. This led to what we now call the Western diet – a diet made up of mainly processed foods, stripped of their original nutrients, and repackaged as “healthy” alternative food products.

The effect of this diet on our health has been nothing less than astounding. Indeed, the industrialization of food and the Western diet are the principal reason for the large number of chronic heart diseases in the Western world.

The rise of nutritionism has also made it difficult for consumers to distinguish truly healthy foods from those that merely claim to be so. The result is that we need nutritionists to interpret the ingredients labels of the food products we fill our shopping carts with.

In these blinks, you’ll learn that it’s possible to escape the dominant dietary approach that nutritionism has become, and develop instead a more traditional and healthier way of eating.

Also in these blinks, you’ll learn:

that much dietary advice offered today is based on little more than hypotheses;
why we stopped talking about food, and started talking about nutrients; and
why you shouldn’t eat anything that your Great Grandmother wouldn’t.

In the twentieth century, we began to talk about consuming nutrients rather than eating food.

Think back to the last time you wanted to start following a healthier diet. Did you think, “I’ll start eating carrots and cucumbers and stop eating beef and cheese”? Or did you think, “I need to cut out saturated fats and starchy carbohydrates, and eat lots more vitamins and minerals instead”?

If you’re like most people, the details of your new diet were expressed in the language of nutrients, rather than specific foods.

But when did this shift in focus happen? And why?

In the second half of the twentieth century, the food industry and the US government shifted their focus from food to nutrients.

Around 1950, a number of scientists believed that the consumption of fat and cholesterol (i.e., meat and dairy products) was responsible for the rise in heart disease. They called this the lipid hypothesis.

Then, in 1968, the US government set up the Senate Select Committee on Nutrition and Human Needs, which produced a report in 1977, “The Dietary Goals for the United States,” based largely on the lipid hypothesis.

One goal of the committee was to advise people to reduce their consumption of meat and dairy products in order to prevent heart problems. However, the head of the committee, senator George McGovern, happened to own many cattle ranches. Recommending that people should cut out red meat would have been damaging both to his interests and those of the powerful food lobbyists.

So, the wording of the committee’s recommendations was changed. Where they’d previously advised “don’t eat meat and dairy products,” they were instead coerced to advise people to “choose meats, poultry and fish that will reduce saturated fat intake.” Such a recommendation was a much smaller threat to the food industry.

And with this, the discourse of diets began to change: we started to talk about healthy eating not in terms of what foods to eat but in terms of nutrients.

The claim that nutrients determine a food’s healthiness can lead us to misinterpret its actual health content.

You’re at the supermarket, looking to buy pasta, and have two choices: one is “imitation pasta” and the other is “low-carb pasta.”

Which would you choose? Most people would go with what appears to be the healthier choice: the low-carb option. Yet, surprisingly, both types of pasta are essentially the same: they’re both highly processed imitations of actual pasta.

Based on just a hypothesis, the Dietary Goals of the US cleared the path for a golden age in food science.

The surprising truth about today’s sophisticated food science is that the original Dietary Goals of 1977 which initiated it were based not on concrete findings, but on a mere hypothesis.

New research shows that the lipid hypothesis, which associated chronic heart diseases (CHD) with saturated fat and dairy products, was in fact based on two unconvincing studies. The actual link between dietary cholesterol and CHD is a thin one indeed.

Sacrificing pleasure-based diets for a scientific dietary approach has not had any noticeable effect on our health.

If you’ve ever stopped eating a favorite food just because you were told it was bad for you, then you’re like most Americans – a typical victim of nutritionism.

Nutritionism has caused us to sacrifice the pleasure of eating for a more scientific approach to food.

The main cause of our poor health is the Western diet.

Both the advice of nutritionists and the practice of modifying food products to increase their nutritional value distract us from a major cause of poor health in the developed world: the Western diet.

This diet largely consists of processed foods, full of refined sugar and flour. Moreover, it doesn’t include a sufficient amount of fruits, vegetables and whole grains. In short, the reason for our general poor health isn’t nutrients – it’s our diet.

We need to start thinking of food as a relationship, and health as the product of being in it.

As we’ve seen, Weston A. Price reported on the impact of the Western diet around 1939. So why didn’t we listen to him all those years ago?

The truth is, the food industry has too much power, and for them, Price’s conclusions are just too big a threat.

The achievements of industrial agriculture (fast production and long preservation) have come at a high cost.

If we investigate the perspective of food as a relationship, it becomes hard not to notice that the Western diet has introduced a number of abrupt changes over the last 150 years. One of the most important was the dietary shift from whole foods (natural) to refined foods (processed).

But what is refined food?

We need to escape the Western diet and return to a “food culture.”

Before nutritionism, people received their dietary guidance from their cultures. For many people, this responsibility fell specifically to their mothers, as they were the ones that typically passed on the group’s food habits to children. And the reason those habits endured was because they tended to keep people healthy.

Yet, the industrialization of food has practically demolished such a food culture, replacing it with ineffective food science and the unhealthy Western diet.

What to eat? 1: Choose natural, simple and unpretentious food.

The next time you’re at the supermarket, doing your weekly food shopping, take a look at what you’ve thrown into your cart and scan the ingredients of those products. Most likely, you’ll be shocked at the number of food products you’ve selected that are actually just food-like substitutes.

The problem is that food science has made the task of identifying real food a very complicated one.

What to eat? 2: Eat plants, as they provide the most nutrients from the soil, but make sure the soil is good.

If you follow the principles laid out in the previous blink, you’ll be able to distinguish real food from food-like substitutes and dramatically improve your diet.

However, the truth is that certain whole foods are actually better than others. So, here are two principles to help you decide which foods should form the foundation of your diet.

Remember, even if you follow a healthy diet, you should make sure you don’t eat too much.

The focus of nutritionism and food science is so squarely on the chemistry of food that they rarely focus on the sociology or ecology of eating. As a result, nowadays very few people care about the “eating experience.”

So, if you can afford it, you should pay more for food and eat less of it.

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Worum geht es in In Defense of Food?

In Defense of Food is a close examination of the rise of nutritionism in our culture, and a historical account of the industrialization of food. An expert in food ecology, author Michael Pollan takes a look at the way in which the food industry shifted our dietary focus from “food” to “nutrients,” and thus narrowed the objective of eating to one of maintaining physical health – a goal it did not accomplish.

Bestes Zitat aus In Defense of Food

Fact: To avoid upsetting the food industry, the National Academy of Sciences offered recommendations about diet and cancer purely in terms of nutrients.

—Michael Pollan

Wer In Defense of Food lesen sollte

Anyone concerned about his or her diet and health, and looking to improve them
Anyone interested in the actual impact of nutritionism on our physical health
Anyone seeking alternatives to the Western diet

Über den Autor

Michael Pollan is a journalist and professor of journalism at UC Berkeley. He is a well-known author in the field of food sociology, food science and evolution. Pollan’s previous books include The Omnivore’s Dilemma and Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual.

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